Everything we do to a garage door

Most people calling us do not know whether they need a spring, a cable, an opener or a whole door — and that is fine. You do not have to diagnose it. Describe what the door is doing and we will work it out.

As a rough guide: if you heard a bang and the door will not lift, that is almost always a spring. If the motor runs but nothing moves, or the door reverses at the floor, that is usually the opener or its safety sensors. If the door is crooked, grinding or hanging off one side, that is general repair territory — track, rollers or cables.

Rust through the bottom section, cracked panels at the hinge lines, or sections that are no longer manufactured are the three things that push a job from repair to replacement. We will tell you which side of that line you are on, including when the answer is the cheaper one.

Whatever the work is, the way we run it does not change. You get a price before anything starts, not a number that appears on the invoice afterward. The person who quotes the job is the person who does it.

Any repair that changes how much the door weighs — new springs, a new section, a new door — ends with the spring tension re-set to the actual door weight and the opener force and travel limits re-adjusted to match. Skipping that is how a correct-looking repair quietly destroys an opener over the following year.

We finish by cycling the door, testing the safety reverse and the photo eyes, and showing you what to keep an eye on. If we think something else is close to failing, you will hear about it — you are not obliged to do anything about it.